want to mention, people may want to consider using the 1.5A
To-220 regulators rather than the old 1A 7805’s. For
example a L7805CV (Jameco #924633). Indeed I seem to
remember Mouser had 3A 5V’s in a TO-220 package.
are a lot of chips for one 7805 on that board. On a V2
version Josh, you might want to consider a 3A LM232K, I
know they are a real pain to get, take up much more room,
but they do run much cooler. Alternatively put two
To-220’s on the board. It’s probably just me, but I don’t
like hot boards. Over time the fiberglass starts to
deform/change color… minimally put a mica washer between the
heat sink and board. Also use heat sink paste.
Because the 7805 can get hot, I want to just issue a
safety warning for everyone.
Hopefully, most of you already know this, but just in
case, it's always a good idea to remind and inform the new
When powering a board for the first time, be ready to
check the voltages and monitor the heat of the
Cut power off at the sign of any trouble.
When monitoring the heat of the regulator by finger,
always use a wet finger. Doesn't sound right near
electricity, but hopefully you have a properly grounded
power supply and chassis. The wet finger will prevent
severe burns if the temperature is over 100c. When it's
over 100c, a quick light tap on the surface with a wet
finger will give a quick sizzle. It's like testing the
temperature on your clothes iron. The best way is to use
an infrared surface thermometer, but I only got one of
those a few months ago. Up to now, I've always used the
wet finger without incident.
You received this message because you are subscribed to the
Google Groups "N8VEM-S100" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from
it, send an email to n8vem-s100+...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.